A Visit to Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, 4/20/2018

The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian was established in 1937 by Mary Cabot Wheelwright. She traveled extensively throughout the world and had a keen interest in religion. Hastiin Klah, an esteemed Navajo singer (aka medicine man), was her collaborator in founding the museum. When they first met and became trusted friends, they set out to document Klah’s telling of the Navajo Creation Story and other narratives that are the basis of the Navajo religion. 

It was initially named Navajo House of Prayer, but officially opened as the Museum of Ceremonial Art. By the 1970s, The Navajo Medicine Man’s Association requested that several Navajo medicine bundles (owned by the museum) be repatriated to them; the museum agreed. In 1977, eighty oil paintings of sandpaintings (used in Navajo ceremonies) were also repatriated to the the Association. The name of the museum was changed to its current one, Wheelwright Museum of American Indians.

Today, it is the oldest non-profit, independent museum with exhibits of historic and contemporary Native American art. There are changing exhibits (one was being installed when we visited). Go to their site (www.wheelwright.org) for information about upcoming exhibits and other programs at the museum. 

Emma Whitehorse, Witch Seed 1, 1997

Wheelwright is home to the Jim and Laura Phillips Center for the Study of Southwestern Jewelry. The collection is the most comprehensive collection of Navajo and Pueblo jewelry in the world. 

The stone and shell necklaces below were worn by Zuni women in the early 1800s. As early as 600 AD, the Zuni took bison hides and turquoise to the Pacific to trade for shells. Also shown are examples of metalwork with silver. On the left is a bridle made by the Navajo.

Silversmithing was practiced by the Navajo and in Pueblos. The first photo below is of men’s adornments (of the late 1850) and the second women’s adornments. 

Concha belts were the earliest form of jewelry made by the Navajo and Pueblos. Initially, they had a narrow strip running through the domed silver pieces. The design evolved and various materials were used to hold the silver together to form a belt.

Below are two display cases of Zuni jewelry, the earlier pieces are in the first photo. The second one showcases the complex designs of Zuni jewelry created in the twentieth venture.

The Hopi created their own style of silver pieces and jewelry with unique designs, to distinguish them from the other Native American people.

By the 1980s, silversmithing by Native Americans expanded to making intricately designed boxes and other specialized items. 

Silversmithing remains an important commercial endeavor for the Native Americans of southwest. Because the other exhibit on this floor was under construction, we continued to the lower level where contemporary art pieces can be seen.

Benjamin Harljo, Jr. Acrylics on Canvas, 2014

The museum shop, the Case Trading Post, was established in 1975. It is a replica of a turn-of-the-century (1900) trading post. You can purchase Native American contemporary craft and fine arts here. There is also a large selection of jewelry, ceramics and textiles. 

On the museum’s terrace are two bronze statues by Allan C. Houser that I really liked. 

Heading Home, 1980 Dineh, 1982

As we were leaving the museum, we saw this impressive bronze sculpture group at the corner of the Old Santa Fe Trail and Camino Lejo. Entitled, Journey’s End, It represents a lead wagon of a trail caravan on its final approach into Santa Fe. Looking back at the wagon is an outrider and on the right a Hispanic boy and his dog running to watch. 

Finally, a Pueblo woman observes the scene as well. 

I really enjoyed the different perspectives represented by the collection of observers. The artist is Renaldo Rivera and it was completed in 2002, and dedicated at this site in 2003. 

This wrapped up a busy day for us as this was our second museum today. It’s always fun to run across interesting roadside attractions like Journey’s End. Take time to smell the roses!

Visiting the Georgia O’Keefe Museum, 4/20/2018

Almost every major museum we have visited throughout our travels have at least one Georgia O’Keefe painting on display. We both have always enjoyed her work and were excited to visit this museum dedicated to her in Santa Fe.

Georgia O’Keefe (1887-1986) is internationally known for her innovative art in the American Modernism style. She had certain subjects that she studied and loved that appeared (and re-appeared) many times in her paintings including: flowers, cityscapes, landscapes, and bones against a stark desert. During her 60-year career, she created many pieces in her unique style. 

Born in Sun Prairie, WI, her artistic ability was recognized early on. After high school graduation (1905), she studied at the Art Institute of Chicago, the Art Students League (NYC) and several other fine art schools.Her first exhibit in NYC was sponsored by Alfred Stieglitz in 1916; she moved there in 1918. Married in 1924 to Stieglitz, he played a significant role in promoting her work and held annual exhibitions until his death in 1946. 

Corn No 2, 1924 Canna Leaves, 1925

In 1929, O’Keefe made her first visit to northern New Mexico, and fell in love with the area. For the next twenty years she spent some time in Santa Fe each year and the influence of the area on her was seen in her paintings.

Church Steeple, 1930 Mule Skull with Pink Poinsettia, 1936 

Ram’s Head, Blue Morning Glory, 1938

Bella Donna, 1936 Tan, Orange, Yellow, Lavender, 1956-57 

O’Keefe made New Mexico her permanent home in 1949. By that time she owned two homes: Abiquiu (50 miles north of Santa Fe) and Ghost Ranch where she had a home and studio. 

My Front yard, 1941

After 1949, O’Keefe began international travel where she gained inspiration from many places she visited. Below are two of her paintings (of Peru) from that era.

Machu Picchu 1, 1957 Green and White, 1957-58

Photography of some of her paintings in the museum are prohibited. The ones shown here are randomly selected (and ones I particularly enjoyed). There is so much more to see and enjoy in person at the museum.

There are many photographs about O’Keefe’s life and work on display in the museum. Below are two that I liked: the first is of her on a motorcycle at her home in 1944; and the second is of her with her painting of the Pelvis Series Red with Yellow, 1960.

There is very nice museum gift shop that offers many unique items. We spent some time perusing the merchandise...

The museum continues to maintain O’Keefe’s two homes of Santa Fe. Tours of Abiquiu are offered March through November (although we did not go one one). For additional information about admission, hours of operation, tours, etc., go to www.okeefemuseum.org. 

Day One in Santa Fe, NM, 4/19/2018

We have been looking forward to our visit to Santa Fe, NM, for quite a while. Once we were here, I wasn’t really sure where to start. So, we decided to begin with a visit to Santa Fe Plaza. About 9 miles from where we are staying (Santa Fe Skies RV Park), we drove around searching for a parking space. We ended up paying $5 to park 4 hours in the lot behind Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. 

Our first stop was the Cathedral Park on the north side of the Basilica. 

The sculpture in the center of the park is a gift to Santa Fe and the State of New Mexico to commemorate the Spanish colonists who settled here in 1598.  Approximately 560 men, women and children established one of the earliest permanent European settlements in the US here. The second statue in the park honors Don Diego de Vargas, governor of New Mexico for the Spanish Crown from 1691-1697 and 1703-1704.

We proceeded to the front of the Basilica where there a statue of St. Francis of Assisi can be seen. Also shown is the sculpture Blessed Kateri, a Catholic Native American that was beatified in 1980 by Pope John Paul II. Kateri Tekakwitha was born in 1656 and baptized at age 20 and died 4 years later. She was known as the Lily of the Mohawks. 

The main body of the church is French Romanesque architecture, and, gorgeous. The stone was quarried south of Santa Fe. The beautiful stained glass windows were made in France and installed in 1884. Beneath the windows are the first seven Stations of the Cross depicting the Passion of Christ. 

In the center of the church is the impressive baptismal font (dedicated in 2001). Made of Brazilian granite, the water flows constantly. 

In the sanctuary, behind the altar, is a reredos (altar screen) that was created in 1986. The wood carving was done by two Taos artists (Robert Lavadie and Paul Martinez). A statue of St. Francis dating from the 1700s is in the center of the reredos. Archbishops and important diocesan leaders are entombed in a crypt beneath the Sanctuary. Above the choir loft at the entrance of the church is the Rose Window. The circle symbolizes eternity and the petals represent the 12 Tribes of Israel and the 12 apostles. 

To the left of the sanctuary is the La Conquistadora Our Lady of Peace Chapel. This chapel was part of the 1714 adobe church and honors the Blessed Virgin Mary (the statue in the center of the reredos). The statue was made in Spain in the 1400s and was brought to Santa Fe in 1625 by a Franciscan priest. It is the oldest statue of Mary in the US. The crucifix hangs on a wall in the chapel. And, a display case contains Reliquaries. These are referred to as Shrines and are containers for relics (that may be physical remains of saints, such as bones, pieces of clothing, or some object associated with departed saints or religious figures). 

From the cathedral, we walked the short distance to the Santa Fe Plaza. It is a National Historic Landmark and has been the center for commerce, festivals, and history for about 400 years. This marker indicates the end of the Santa Fe Trail that was used from 1822 to 1879. It was erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution in 1910.

The monument in the center of the Plaza was erected by the New Mexico legislature and dedicated in 1868 to honor heroes lost in battle. Some of the verbiage inscribed on the monument has been changed as cultural norms have changed. Below is an example where the word “savage” is replaced by the word “resilient.”

Native American vendors can be found at the Palace of the Governors (on the Plaza). 

This is the third clock to stand in this location on the Plaza. It was installed in 1916 after its predecessor was hit by a truck (reportedly one of the first in Santa Fe) and stood in front of the Spitz Jewelry Store. It was donated to the city in 1974. The New Mexico Museum of Art can be seen behind it. We did not visit it today (as we had our doggie, Sadie, with us), but hope to return during our stay in Santa Fe. 

Across the street from the Museum of Art is the New Mexico History Museum, another one we would like visit. From there we walked around the area seeing restaurants, inns, art galleries, shops, and even a Dog Bar for Sadie!

Returning to our car, we drove to the Cross of the Martyrs (located on the site where historic Fort Marcy once stood). A marker near the entrance commemorates L. Bradford Prince (1840-1922). Originally from NY, he was appointed (by President Rutherford B. Hayes) as Chief Justice of the Territory of New Mexico (1879-82). Prince loved the Santa Fe area and remained here. He was the Territorial Governor of NM from 1889-93 and a leader of the community throughout his life. 

Built by the US Army in 1846, Fort Marcy was established during the Mexican-American War after the invasion and capture of Santa Fe. It is positioned on top of a hill providing a clear view of the town. 

The large mounds in the photo below are eroded remains of the blockhouse at Fort Marcy. It was made of adobe bricks with a timber ceiling covered with several feet of dirt. 

The fort, however, was never garrisoned by soldiers nor engaged in any fighting. By the end of 1847, the guns had been removed and the fort closed. We explored the area of the old fort for a bit, and then walked to the path to see the Cross of the Martyrs.

The Cross, dedicated in 1920 during the Santa Fe Festival, commemorates the death of 21 Franciscan friars and many Spanish colonists during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. It is a concrete cross  that is 25’ tall and weighs 76 tons and overlooks the town of Santa Fe. Plaques at the site tell the history of the Cross of the Martyrs. Candle processions have been held here for many years. 

There are benches and picnic tables where you can enjoy the views of the mountains and the town of Santa Fe. 

We have already fallen in love with Santa Fe! It is such a lovely town that celebrates the arts in every form, is rich in cultural history, and provides hiking opportunities in the nearby Sangre de Cristo Mountains.