Who was the “Barber of Natchez”?, 7/30/2018

A rainy day prompted us to visit the William Johnson House, a unit of the Natchez National Historical Park is located on State Street in the commercial district during antebellum Natchez (mid-1800s). The population at the time was 3,000 whites, 1,600 slaves, and 200 free blacks (who were mostly mixed race). William Johnson was one of the free people of color and a prominent citizen in the community. He owned the brick structure (shown below) where he (and his family) lived and rented retail shop space.

Here’s a brief history of William Johnson and his home:

1809:  Johnson born into slavery by a mixed race slave woman (Amy).

1820:  Emancipated by his white slave owner (presumed to be his father). His mother and sister, Adela, had been free a couple of years earlier.

1830:  Opened his first (of three) barber shops after an apprenticeship with Adela’s husband (also A free black man). His Main Street shop catered to wealthy white men.

1840:  Johnson purchased farmland and expanded his interests beyond his urban business.

1841:  Family moved to the upstairs home and rented out commercial space at street level. He and his wife, Ann, had 10 children (and Ann’s mother lived with them, too).

1851:  Johnson was murdered (shot in the back) by Baylor Winn following a property dispute. Because blacks could not testify in court against a white man (and the three witnesses to the crime were black or mixed race), Winn only served two years. 

1976: The home was in the Johnson family for almost 130 years, when it was purchased by the Preservation Society of Elliott Hill.

1990: National Park Service acquired the property and, after restoration efforts, opened the visitor center, first floor exhibit, and 2nd floor living quarters (with many Johnson family original furnishings). 

How do we know so much about Williams Johnson today? He kept a diary from 1835 until his death in 1851 (14 volumes). Preserved by his family, it is now at Louisiana State University. It provides glimpses into life for a free person of color during the pre-Civil War period in the south. Portions of the diary are on display in the exhibit area.

A model of the house of the original house and the two-story second structure behind (that contained the kitchen, dining rooms, and slave quarters) can be seen. Yes, Johnson owned about 25 slaves, a measure of wealth and success in Natchez at the time. Some worked in the home, but most on his farms. 

Additional information about Johnson’s family (although little is known of subsequent generations) and businesses can be found in the first -floor exhibit area.  Known as the “Barber of Natchez,” Johnson personally provided services to his customers as did free blacks in his employ and slaves that he owned. 

We continued the self-guided tour to the rear of the house. The second building (kitchen, etc.) can be seen here (although it was not open) and we took the stairs to the back porch to enter the Johnson family living quarters.

The parlor was in the largest room on the second floor. Many of the furnishings here original to the Johnson family during the 1800s. William Johnson was well educated and well read. He likely sat at the desk to write in his diary each night. 

The bedroom of William and Ann Johnson is shown below. It is likely that their two youngest children shared the bedroom with them. Also shown is the bedroom of Harriet Battles (Ann’s mother). She retained title to the property until her death in 1873 when she left it to her 5 granddaughters.

This is one of several locations of the Natchez National Historic Park. There is no admission fee to visit the site. For additional information about the William Johnson House or other sites, go to www.nps.gov/natc. 

Day One in Natchez, 7/29/2018

Our first day in Natchez, MS, we began at the Visitor Center. I have found the information provided at these places all over the country to be very helpful. They are usually staffed by locals that can provide the inside scoop of what to see. 

This is a huge place with lots of maps and brochures of local and nearby attractions, accommodations, restaurants, tours, exhibits and staff to answer questions. It also serves as the visitor center for the Natchez National Historic Park. 

The Natchez People lived in this area for centuries before the first Europeans arrived., when their lives would change forever. 

The French were the first to settle in Natchez in 1716-1729; followed by the British in 1763-79; and then the Spanish in 1779-98. Strategically located on the Mississippi River north of New Orleans, Natchez became the cultural and commercial (cotton and trade) center of the South. Timeline panel displays provide the history of the area.

Cotton had played a significant role in the history and economy of Natchez. Today, the Mississippi River Ballon Race with live music, ballooning, dining options, and other attractions will be held October 19-21, 2018. This is the 32nd year of the annual event

This sculpture commemorates the Jim Bowie Sandbar fight in September, 1827. A formal dual between Samuel Wells and Dr. Thomas Maddox was held on a nearby Mississippi River sandbar. After both exchanged shots, no one was injured and they shook hands as friends. However, 16+ men were present and a violent fight broke out. Jim Bowie was seriously wounded (gunshot wound, head trauma, stabbed) when he pulled Major Norris Wright down onto his large hunting knife (killing him). Bowie was shot two more times and stabbed again, but survived his injuries. In the meantime, the story of his knife spread making him a legend. Bowie died nine years later in the Battle of the Alamo. 

With maps of the local area, we walked from the Visitor Center to Fort Rosalie, one of sites of Natchez National Historic Park.

Established by the French (as Fort Panmure) in 1716, it was intended to control the largest river in North America. By 1817, the settlement grew to the town of Natchez in the state of Mississippi. A four-cornered area with wooden palisades was constructed that was about 150’ by 90’.  Barracks, a guardhouse, magazine, and storehouse were built inside the palisades. None remain today. 

We returned to the car and went for a short driving tour of Natchez. Stopping at Natchez Bluff Park, we saw the Katherine Grafton Miller Bandstand (a replica of the one that originally stood here). 

Great views of the Mississippi River to the north and south can be seen from the park. The Natchez-Vidalia Bridge connects Mississippi to Louisiana. The first cantilever bridge was completed in 1940; and, as traffic increased, the second was completed in 1988. It is the tallest bridge in Mississippi (and is our route to the RV park where we are staying).

Also, a walkway along the river can be accessed from the bluff.

This plaque lists the names of the 209 people who perished in the tragic dance hall fire that occurred in Natchez September 23, 1940. The Rhythm Club was a one-story, steel-clad, wood-frame structure 120’ by 38’. The building had 24 windows but they were shuttered/nailed shut with one exit (where the doors swung inward). When the fire broke out it was quickly fed by the decorative Spanish moss draped over interior rafters. In addition to those who died, many more were seriously injured. It was the 2nd most deadly fire in US history. 

Beneath the Natchez Bluffs is the Under-the-Hill District. During the Revolutionary War there were about 20 buildings here and was the town of Natchez. The center of town shifted to the upper bluffs and this part of town was soon transformed into a place frequented by gamblers, river pirates, highwaymen, and prostitutes. In the 1970s, six dilapidated brick buildings were restored and opened for business. Today, restaurants and shops here attract many visitors. 

Forks of the Road Historical Site marks the location where the second-largest slave auction market in the South operated from 1833-1863. An estimated 750,000 enslaved African Americas were moved from the upper to the lower South and became known as the “domestic slave trade.” Most arrived on foot in chained lines (called “coffles”) after walking from Richmond to Natchez. White men in carriages with whips forced the slaves to travel hundreds of miles through harsh conditions. Many died along the way due to exposure and abuse. Such a very dark time in our nation’s history...

Interpretive signs provide the tragic history of this place. Many ex-slavess joined the Union army during the Civil War. Below is a roster of those who enlisted from the Mississippi region.

A small monument with broken shackles can be seen at the site.

Great wealth from cotton and sugar was created through the use of slave labor in Natchez. Many antebellum homes of the wealthy slave-owners of that era remain today.

For additional information about Natchez, go to www.visitnatchez.org.

Fallbrook RV Park, June 28 to July 28, 2018

Rating:  5.0 on a scale of 5

This is a gated park and a unique access code to open the gate is provided for each site. 

Access codes are also provided to a walk-through gate and the bathrooms (for after-hours access). There is no charge for visitors.

Location: This RV resort is just north of Houston, but feels like it is in the country. We selected this park because it was about 15-20 minutes from where our daughter who lives in Houston. It was very convenient for access to downtown Houston, restaurants, and shopping.

Lot size: Every lot in this park is a large, cement, full hook-up, site. Most (except for those around the lake and around the perimeter) are pull-throughs (we were in lot 59). The large roads provide plenty of room to maneuver any size RV into a site. We had plenty of room for our RV, tow dolly car, and a second vehicle. Also, each site had a grassy area and picnic table. Every lot in the park was really nice. Some RVs are also available for rent here (not sure of the cost). 

Amenities: This park has every amenity you could want, really! The pool was so nice, and the park has a policy of adult swim from 8:00-10:00 pm nightly. There are also gas grills and an outside bar with a sink, refrigerator, ice machine for drinks, TV with a great view of the lake.

The lake is stocked with fish, but no dogs are permitted in the area around it (or to swim in it).

The recreation room is super nice. We had fun playing longboard and pool on multiple occasions during our stay. 

The business center is open for guests. In addition to three workstations, there are printers and a fax machine. This is a huge convenience!

The laundry room, also located next to the rec room, is the nicest one we have seen in an RV park. Washers and dryers are paid via a card (with a machine to add value to it in the room).

One of our favorite features of this park was the huge, off-leash, dog run. They also have a “professional” grade dog wash (Sadie did not like that too much). For the convenience of guests, there is an air station and propane is sold on-site.

Cost: $620/month + electric ($190). The summer temperatures during the month we stayed in Houston were in the high 90s and sometimes over 100, therefore, we had both air conditioners running much of the time. In the winter, the electric is closer to $40/month. 

Management: The folks that run this place are friendly, helpful, knowledgable, and efficient. We received mail and packages here with no issues. Everything is so well organized (both check in and check out for the electric expenses) before departure. There are some long-term guests here, but everything is beautifully maintained. 

General Comments: This place is fantastic! It is reasonably priced and meticulously maintained. We had a great cook out one Sunday with Amanda and Kaitlyn. And the park is very conveniently located to downtown Houston. We really enjoyed our stay here and will be back in the future. 

Website: www.qualityrvresorts.com/resort/fallbrook-rv-resort